Havasupai, the Heart of the Grand Canyon
Hiking through the Havasupai land to the Havasu Creek with its pearlescent, aqua- colored water flowing down waterfalls and gathering in pools on its way down the Havasu Canyon to join the Colorado in the Grand Canyon, is a bucket list opportunity that people wait years to experience. Admittance is controlled by the Havasupai. Lodging options are a lodge in the village and the backpacking campground each with a minimum stay of three nights. This whole adventure was possible because there happened to be a room available at the lodge within a day or two of the time we had planned on going down to the Phantom Ranch. Our accommodations at the lodge were pretty basic: bed, sink, shower, mini-fridge and electricity. But, oh man, did that feel luxury at its finest!
So, here are the pertinent logistics:
*Trailhead is 60+ miles from old Rt 66 in northern Arizona
*No roads (I'm serious, none. Just a hiking trail or trails …)
*Trail is shared with pack mules, horses and dogs
*Canyon top (trailhead) to village ... 8 mi
*Trailhead to backpack campgrnd..10 mi
*Number of major waterfalls falls ….. ~5
*Village to lowest falls, Beaver..….. 5 mi
*Beaver Falls to Convergence ….. 4 mi
*The descent trailhead to canyon floor . ~1000'/1 mi canyon floor to village ...... 1000'/7 mi village to base of Mooney Falls.700'/3 mi Mooney Falls to Beaver Falls.. 300'/2 mi
*One “cafe” and one “store” in the village.
*The cafe and store were there to serve the villagers needs, not the hikers needs
*Village Cafe closed at 5:00pm
*Village store closed at 5:30pm
*The village is supplied by mule trains and helicopters.
*US mail is delivered by mule train (even the Amazon packages come by mule😁)
*All mail and trash is packed out by mule
*The trail goes right through the village.
*Once you enter the village at large, hikers were requested to stay on the trail and not take pictures
We hiked in with our clothes, our CPAPs, food, first aid, toiletries, computers, camera gear, hats, sunscreen and bug spray. We quickly decided, like by mile 1.5, that we should have been more discriminating while packing! Haha! The opportunity to observe the village was fascinating. The village had approximately 50 homes and a population of 200-300 people. It was multigenerational, moms with babies, elders, kids, youth, women and men, and, of course, everyone either walked, road a horse or there were a few who rode bikes. There was a lot of conversation and socializing. There were also lots of dogs, I mean lots! As we were sitting in the cafe looking over the village center, a dirt square, which was surrounded by the store, post office, the tribal center and the cafe, we probably saw 20 people and 30 dogs. The dogs weren't leashed but were perfectly well behaved. They had their own interactions with each other. No barking, fighting, growling or jumping. It was fascinating to watch the entire scene.
We were so exhausted that first night we were in bed and sleeping by 5:30pm. I awoke to some people talking outside and thought to myself how rude they were, being so loud in the middle of the night, until I checked my watch and saw it was only 6:30pm. 😂
The next morning, we headed out for our longest day, hiking down to Beaver Falls and back. Naturally in looking at pics of the area, it was the one fall that I most wanted to see with its series of ledges and pools and just as naturally that meant at least a ten mile hike with multiple stream crossings and who knew what else to encounter along the way.
As we explored for the next two days we discovered many incredulous spots that were positively breathtaking. On our last day we arose at 4:00 am so we could be on the trail by 4:30 am and hopefully out of the canyon before the sun hit the side and made that 1000+’ /1 mile climb up out of the canyon even more impossible.
It was physically challenging, a visual and sensory feast and a deeply calming experience. It was a place to be truly grounded and connected with the earth and onesself. Tranquility. Serenity. Deep contentment.
On to pics. They truly don't do it justice, but I did my best!
Our campsite some 70+ miles from the trailhead. It took a good 1.5 - 2 hrs to get to the trailhead from here.
Sunset from the campground. I should be packing … but instead I'm off taking pics of sunsets. 🤭
First views looking down into the canyon from the trailhead. I didn't see any water yet, but it was beautiful!
And our first mule train. Now I know you're supposed to stand on the inside edge of the trail as the mules go by … When I actually met the first one it seemed like there was a better spot on the outside of the trail, so I stood there. One of the mules decided that that looked like a good spot too and headed right for me. I had to give him a big shove so he didn't knock me over the edge! At which point the driver yelled something about always standing on the inside. Good advice that I could have used a little earlier. 🤔 The mules are free, not attached by ropes or harnesses to each other, they just know where to go and pretty much follow each other. (Unless they see an unsuspecting hiking novice tourist that they want to take out! 😂)
And the ever present dog. If a mule or two decide they don't want to go all the way up the cliff, they sometimes breakout at the end of the switchbacks. This is followed by a verbal (not in English) or nonverbal communication between the driver and the dog who goes after the renegade mule(s), while the driver continues on with the main pack. Then the dog will follow up by driving the recalcitrant mules the rest of the way. Sometimes that's not enough to convince the freedom-desiring mule(s) to tow the line and the driver has to come back and work with the dog to get them. We were able to witness all these shenanigans multiple times.
The end of a switchback in the foreground. We are making progress descending the side of the canyon!
Getting closer to the bottom of the canyon which continues it's downward slope but at 1,000’/7 miles not 1000’/1 mile!
And we're down. (At least with the super steep section. 😂)
Martin hiking onward.
At times the trail was pretty rugged, especially in the “wash”. Spring waters and flooding bring sand, gravel and rocks of various sizes onto the “trail” so footing was often unstable.
Hiking down, some spots are quite narrow.
The interplay of light and shadow on the canyon walls and the cottonwood caught my eye.
Plenty of cactus still about.
Not sure what this is, but it looked interesting.
The trek down the canyon continues. We hope we know what we'll find at the end … but at this point, we're not certain (and to be honest we're not sure if we even care 😂).
Mesquite pods.
I'd read about how the indigenous ground the beans for meal and food while exploring the southwest last winter and spring but hadn't seen any pods. And now, full circle. I do like it when I can see a story to completion.
I loved this spot in the hike. We’d been so exposed for so long and here was this tunnel of shade trees to walk through. It just looked so inviting. Shortly after this, we arrived at the village, found the lodge and collapsed.
The next morning we headed out on our trek to Beaver Falls and back. We went by several of the major named falls on our way down. It was another 1000+’ down but over 5 miles so with a few exceptions … it wasn't too steep.
Navajo Falls, 30' drop
Havasu Falls, 95' drop
Havasu Falls is just before the campground. (More pics of this fall later.)
And Mooney Falls, 195' drop. About 0.5 miles after the campground
After we had clambered down some pretty challenging trail, it appeared to disappear … 🤔. We did find this sign though. Not that that was particularly reassuring …. (In case you're having trouble reading it, the sign says “DESCEND AT OWN RISK”) 😬
So ok, the trail didn't completely disappear … it just became a small tunnel, of sorts, dug into the rock and was unlit so it was completely dark! As I was feeling my way down with my hands and my feet (in complete darkness) all I could think of were all the warnings about not putting your hands anywhere you couldn't see to avoid scorpions, snakes and other venomous creatures. 😬 (We were just fine despite my errant thoughts.)
Martin at the top of the tunnel …
and me coming out.
The rest of the descent was even crazier and wet from the waterfall, so no more pics.
After we came out of the tunnel there were ladders, knotted ropes, knotted chains, essentially vertical logs with little notches cut into them for steps and more ladders (all soaking wet and rather slippery) before reaching the bottom.
This is a pic looking at the descending trail, complete with some intrepid hikers, from an island in the creek. I have to admit this was a bit hair raising … but also wildly invigorating and I was determined to make it to Beaver Falls.
Another shot of Moody Falls. This was a gorgeous water fall.
And a final shot from further down the trail.
The trail often ran alongside Havasu Creek. And just look at the color of that water. Is it real? Yes! How is it possible? Well, I've been doing some research to try and figure that out. The creek water is super-saturated with chemicals, mostly carbonate, because it runs underground through limestone a long ways before it comes to the surface in Havasu Canyon. There it precipitates out, forms travertine and coats everything it touches, the bottoms of the pools, creating dams, aprons, skirts and veils. The light colored travertine coats the bottom of the creek and pools reflecting the green vegitation and blue sky resulting in the brilliant pearlescent shades of turquoise, aquamarine and jade. Around the falls the spectacular draping consists of chocolate travertine. All together it is magical.
The first water crossing. At this point we changed out of our hiking boots, into water shoes and slung our hiking boots onto our packs for the hike back. Most of the water crossing werent too deep, like knee high, but some were up nearly waist high. A lot seemed to depend on where you chose to cross, the trail was a bit “vague” at times, so there was a lot of room for discretion. 😂
Sometimes the trail left the creek and we hiked through green valleys, but whether along the creek or through a green valley we were always between the canyon walls.
All down the creek the travertine deposits made rims and pools, so not only were there the spectacular large falls, but there were continual pools, rims and little runs of water as well.
We've just about made it to our destination of Beaver Falls, except as it turns out … there's another tricky bit ahead. Not nearly as tricky as Moody Falls, but not exactly smooth sailing either.
Now, I know, at first glance, this looks like a simple little ladder, but note that there isn't anything to hold onto while getting onto the ladder (the ladder is tucked in under the lip of the rock) and, although you can't see it, for a little added adventure, the bottom rung of the ladder is missing! Oh fun!
Here's another fun spot. The wooden ladder was nearly flat across the water, except for the “slight” slope toward the rock. Then there's the aluminum ladder which was just leaning up against the rock, not looking super secure to me. Note to self: we're not hiking in a regulated national park, be responsible for yourself.
That said, look at the beautiful reflection in the water at this very same spot. 😁
Pics of Beaver Falls, 50'
Some closeups, some further away. Some with people swimming! I loved the steps, tiers and pools in these falls.
Goal accomplished, we took a little more time on the way back to “stop and smell the roses”, I mean take pics of grasses
and cactuses
and an old bighorn sheep who was lying quietly in the grass so close to the trail that I was just a few feet away from him before I noticed him. (He startled me so much I nearly jumped out of my skin and poor Martin was sure I'd seen another rattlesnake. 😂) He didn't budge, just kept eating grass and looking at us.
More stream crossings.
Moody Falls
Martin at Moody Falls
All the way back, and to be truthful, the way down to Beaver Falls I had this niggling nervous doubt, would I be able to make it UP the trail at Moody Falls? Usually, up is easier than down, except when it's super steep and you have a rope or chain to hold on to, then gravity helps you down and brute strength, upper body strength, is required to get you up. I'm like a T-Rex when it comes to upper body strength … 🙄 However, I'm very happy to report that it was way easier than I thought or imagined it would be and I scampered right up it (at a ahem, 60 something year old pace 😂).
The next day we explored “closer to home”. We went in search of Fifty Foot Falls, a 75' drop. Another wild adventure of hiking down a trail, then taking our shoes off and walking through some trees and marshy stuff only to arrive at what looked like a tropical paradise. Giant reeds, dragonflies, crystal clear water, fish, waterfalls, mist, rainbows. It was so glorious.
I loved Beaver Falls, but this was so hidden, so private. Definitely one of my favs.
Havasu Falls
This waterfall is located just before the campground. It is probably one of the most well known and oft photographed. It is easily seen from the trail and just a short side trip to get to the pool for a close-up or swimming.
It also has some lovely pools and smaller drops .
This one doesn't even have a name. ❤️ But I thought it was so beautiful. Just on the way from the campground to the village.
Huge old cottonwoods line the trail entering the village.
Next morning, 4:30am. Ready to start our hike out. Packs are lighter … we ate apples, snickers bars, protein bars and carrots while we were there. Just wrappers to pack out.
We hiked out with headlamps because it was completely dark when we started.
At one point we (ok, I ) headed off down this side trail heading toward another canyon that WAS NOT the main trail out.😬 Fortunately we eventually saw a little light ahead. It was another hiker who had started even earlier than we had and he'd gone even further down that side trail (in the dark) and said it was turning the wrong way so he turned around to try and backtrack to where he got off the trail. We were as thrilled to see him as he was to see us and we all headed back to get on the right trail and headed correctly onward. Whew!
The magical sendoff though, was that as we were walking through the village, light was spilling out of the open door of the tribal center where some people were gathering, drums were being played and songs, prayers, morning welcomes, ??? were being chanted. It felt very spiritual, after what we had witnessed the previous days, to leave this village with those sounds reverberating in our ears.
After an hour or two, dawn is breaking, but it's still pretty dark on the canyon floor.
Much of the hike out was in the shade,
thankfully.
This was without a doubt a most remarkable and moving journey of discovery.
Next stop:
Canyon de Chelly
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