Bandelier National Monument and more

Bandalier National Monument 

Our adventures continued as we explored the mountains in northwest New Mexico using Bandelier National Monument as our home base.

It was another fascinating area geographically where fingers of high land were separated by deep canyons. The tip of each of these “fingers” was both remote and secure. 

Speaking of security, this area was the location of Los Alamos and the Manhattan Project. We spent a really interesting day there,  which just so happened to also be the day of the eclipse!  

Bandelier itself included many canyons with pockmarked sandstone walls. Many of these were carved out and used as shelters and homes. Indeed whole communities were built here between 1100-1550, after Mesa Verde and Chaco. Many ruins and some reconstructions were just waiting to be found and respectfully explored.

We also went to Santa Fe a couple of days, enjoying museums; art and history, and the indigenous and Spanish feel of the buildings and markets. 

Oh wait, did I mention markets? There were several markets where the indigenous peoples displayed wares for sale; jewelry, pottery, leatherwork, silver work, art, and more jewelry.  It was all gorgeous and I was sorely tempted. I did get a few things, but not nearly as many as I would have liked!  And we spent some time exploring a few of the many pueblos in the area, in particular, Jemez, in search of pottery, a visit to a preserved ancient ruins and a soak in some hot springs. 

We found this to be such a fascinating area. Interesting cultures, communities perched on the edges of mountains or canyons, gorgeous landscapes, amazing museums, wonderful art and food … well, as to the food…

Martin loved it.  They don't wonder if they should add chili peppers to any recipe, they just wonder which kind they should add. Of course, my response was a resounding NONE!  That didn't go over so well in New Mexico.🤣

On to pics:

exploring the park                                      those are my feet sticking out the opening to a dwelling 

more remnants of dwellings

an Abert's squirrel note the tufts on the ears and the white belly - not the best pics, but I was so excited to actually spot one!

canyon towhee 

We spent one day at Los Alamos. I wasn't so sure that I really “needed” (ie wanted) to know anything more about how we developed a nuclear bomb. A bomb that not only killed countless numbers of people but that with the continued threat of harm to people and the environment from this new nuclear science was still threatening the world.  I knew how I felt about it, I didn't agree with it, but …  It falls into one of my jumbled up messy gray areas where I question a lot and am not really sure what I believe. 

I don't believe in war to solve issues, but I support Ukraine, Russia invaded their territory 

And, I do believe there is such a thing as a just war. It seems like that's the only way some atrocities can be stopped and addressed.

I don't believe in science being used to make warfare more deadly, even though I know that has been happening since the dawn of time.

So I'm not really a complete pacifist … except I deeply believe that peace is the only sane way to make positive strides in our world, BUT,  while I deeply believe war is wrong, if something can be done, some advantage gained to shorten a war … is that bad?

As I said, I was all over the place with how I felt about going to Los Alamos, but Martin wanted to go so I took a deep breath and told myself, what do I say about anything. Learn about it. Really learn, then decide. So we went. Not surprisingly, I learned a lot. Did I change my mind or learn any clarifying truths? Not really, but I no longer consider what was done here to be evil. I believe even more strongly that as with the biological and medical sciences, all science far outpaces the ethics and morals of a society. Can and how are the questions the scientists are always trying to solve. The morals, the ethics, of why and should and what are the consequences of such an action linger far behind. It is always easier to analyze the past than to predict a future.

the main gate - at the time every person went through this little gate to enter the “secret city”.  Security was extremely high. A few interesting examples: Los Alamos was not marked on any map, of course all the mail was censored but not only that, everyone who lived there had the same mailing address, a PO Box in Santa Fe. In fact, there was a question at Sears and Roebuck about why 450 of their catalogs were mailed to a single address, until someone told them “government business, top secret”.  And all the children born to families who were living at Los Alamos have that same address on their birth certificates, the PO box in Santa Fe. All the scientists had code names and information was highly compartmentalized on a “need to know” basis. Not an open atmosphere of collaboration.

Oppenheimer and General Leslie, ready for the eclipse 

We had a Georgia O'Keefe immersion day. I've always been fascinated by her work. It's so strong and bold. Sadly she lost her sight in later years, but she didn't stop creating, she moved to clay  and continued to express herself in that medium. In the morning we toured her home, studio and muse in Abiquiu

courtyard and door   - that door inspired many compositions 

living room 

sculptures and shadows

In the afternoon we went out to Ghost Ranch and hiked. Ghost Ranch, high in the mountains, was where O'Keefe would spend summers for years before she bought her property in Abiquiu. It was where her connection with this land was fostered and developed. The land was her source of renewal, her inspiration, her muse.

 To complete our study, we headed into Santa Fe the next morning to the Georgia O'Keefe Museum.

I love the stark, bold, simple lines

bold, bright colors

the view out her studio and bedroom windows. 

Spring cottonwoods and Pedernal Mountain   Pedernal Mountain featured in many of her paintings and is where her ashes were scattered.

Some people might think this painting is drab or presents with a melancholy mood but to me it connected with my New England roots and I loved it. (She painted it while in the Lake George,NY area)

More Santa Fe 

This was one of the markets that had the most gorgeous items for sale including the black on black pottery of San Ildefonso and Santa Clara Pueblos, stunning jewelry, baskets and more.

Palace of the Governors with indigenous arts for sale displayed on blankets under the overhang

We also fit in the New Mexico Art Museum and the New Mexico History Museum, although we didn't have nearly enough time for that one.  Santa Fe is full of museums and it was hard for us to choose which ones to go to. 

a couple of works that caught my eye in the Art museum 

inside the kiva

We spent the next day driving out to one of the pueblos, Jemez. Although it wasn't an open pueblo, meaning the public are not welcome to just go in and drive or walk around, you could get a permit to hike on a few trails, and they also had a visitors center, a museum, a historic site and a hot springs that are open to the public.

Mural on the visitors centers

Many of the Pueblos are in the process of changing their names back to their own language. Jemez is now known as Gisewatowa, This is in flux as maps and signs still only list the former names. 

We ended the day with a soak in the hot springs while soaking in the views of the mountains. It was great.

another day in Santa Fe.

More museums

These are some pics from the International Folk Art Museum                I was fascinated by these miniatures. There were from many countries and the stories told by these miniatures were so interesting if one took the time to actually look at the figures and their setting.

a nativity scene

I loved the lines of this giraffe, the long legs reflected in the long neck

a beaded indeginous  grouping

Ceremonial dancing

Mexican influence in the folk art

Apparently it's a thing to make scary monsters! Yikes!

I thought this piece was a creative and comical reuse of materials 

When we had finished with the international folk art, which was a personal collection, we walked across the patio to the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture. 

pottery representing classic styles from different pueblos

story teller doll

famous black on black pottery 

Navajo rugs 

black and white pottery

whimsical pop art window display (be sure to read the labels of the “soup”)

We really enjoyed the Santa Fe area. I loved the feel of Santa Fe, and I don't say that about many cities. But not to worry, our next stop is not far away so we can continue to explore this fascinating area with more pueblos, more history, more culture and a bonafide, Catholic certified miracle and consequently location of pilgrimages to a tiny mountain Pueblo. 

Next stop: Pilar campground in the Rio Grande gorge, not far from Taos.